Active climbing cam
From DDL Wiki
(→Pre-Dissasembly Phase) |
(→Part analysis) |
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[[Image:800px-Dissected_Cam_labeled.jpg|thumb|Active climbing cam after dissection, with parts labeled.]] | [[Image:800px-Dissected_Cam_labeled.jpg|thumb|Active climbing cam after dissection, with parts labeled.]] | ||
- | + | ||
+ | {| class="wikitable" border="1" | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | ! Part No. !! Name !! Weight (g) !! Qty. !! Manufacture method | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | 1 || spring || 0.5 || 2 || | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | 2 || cam lobes || 7 || 3 || | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | 3 || body || 45 || 1 || | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | 3.1 || thick cable || || 1 || | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | 3.2 || thin plastic tubes || || 2 || | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | 3.3 || thick plastic tube (orange) || || 1 || | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | 3.4 || trigger || || 1 || | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | 3.5 || axle || || 1 || | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | 3.6 || axle ends || || 2 || | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | 3.7 || finger support || || 1 || | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | 4 || spring pin || || 3 || | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | 5 || trigger wire || || 3 || | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | 6 || copper connector || || 3 || | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | || TOTAL || 52.5 || 24 || | ||
+ | |} |
Revision as of 22:44, 4 February 2007
Contents |
Pre-Dissasembly Phase
User interaction
Inputs
- retraction force from hand
- friction force from rock
- reaction force from rock
Outputs
- force on climbing rope
- force on rock
Function
Spring Loaded Camming Devices
- protect against falls in free or aid climbing
- build removable anchors in rock
- secure a belayer
- mountaineering uses
- mountain rescue
- passive climbing protection
Method of Use
- locate crack
- Identify appropriate size cam unit
- remove cam from harness/chest sling
- grip cam securely
- retract the trigger
- insert in crack, pocket or flake
- find secure placement
- orient the cam with expected direction of force
- retract trigger and remove
- removed either on rappel or by 2nd climber
- replace back on harness or chest sling
Stakeholders
- climber
- rescue workers (mountain rescue)
- insurance companies (health, life & company insurance)
- tourism
- manufacturers
- hospitals
- environment
- retail services
- distributors
Issues associated with use
- having proper size for each type of placement
- dropping the device while climbing
- "walking" in cracks (when device gets stuck in a rock and you cannot remove it)
- with many devices the extra weight is evident
Watch a demonstration video on using a climbing cam that we did in the lab
Part analysis
Part No. | Name | Weight (g) | Qty. | Manufacture method |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | spring | 0.5 | 2 | |
2 | cam lobes | 7 | 3 | |
3 | body | 45 | 1 | |
3.1 | thick cable | 1 | ||
3.2 | thin plastic tubes | 2 | ||
3.3 | thick plastic tube (orange) | 1 | ||
3.4 | trigger | 1 | ||
3.5 | axle | 1 | ||
3.6 | axle ends | 2 | ||
3.7 | finger support | 1 | ||
4 | spring pin | 3 | ||
5 | trigger wire | 3 | ||
6 | copper connector | 3 | ||
TOTAL | 52.5 | 24 |