Active climbing cam

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Revision as of 22:25, 4 February 2007 (view source) Roberto (Talk | contribs) (→Parts and functionality) ← Older edit		Revision as of 22:28, 4 February 2007 (view source) Roberto (Talk | contribs) (→Pre-Dissasembly Phase) Newer edit →
Line 8:		Line 8:
	=== User interaction ===		=== User interaction ===
-	''' Inputs: '''<br />	+	==== Inputs ====
	- retraction force from hand<br />		- retraction force from hand<br />
	- friction force from rock<br />		- friction force from rock<br />
	- reaction force from rock <br />		- reaction force from rock <br />
-	''' Outputs'''<br />	+	==== Outputs ====
	- force on climbing rope<br />		- force on climbing rope<br />
	- force on rock<br />		- force on rock<br />
-		+	==== Function ====
-	'''Function: Spring Loaded Camming Devices'''<br />	+	Spring Loaded Camming Devices<br />
	- protect against falls in free or aid climbing<br />		- protect against falls in free or aid climbing<br />
	- build removable anchors in rock<br />		- build removable anchors in rock<br />
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-	'''Method of Use'''<br />	+	==== Method of Use ====<br />
	- locate crack<br />		- locate crack<br />
	- Identify appropriate size cam unit<br />		- Identify appropriate size cam unit<br />
Line 41:		Line 41:
-	'''Stakeholders'''<br />	+	=== Stakeholders ===
	- climber<br />		- climber<br />
	- rescue workers (mountain rescue)<br />		- rescue workers (mountain rescue)<br />
Line 53:		Line 53:
-	'''Issues associated with use'''<br />	+	=== Issues associated with use ===
	- having proper size for each type of placement<br />		- having proper size for each type of placement<br />
	- dropping the device while climbing<br />		- dropping the device while climbing<br />

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Revision as of 22:28, 4 February 2007

Contents 1 Pre-Dissasembly Phase 1.1 User interaction 1.1.1 Inputs 1.1.2 Outputs 1.1.3 Function 1.2 Stakeholders 1.3 Issues associated with use 2 Part analysis

Pre-Dissasembly Phase

User interaction

Inputs

- retraction force from hand
- friction force from rock
- reaction force from rock

Outputs

- force on climbing rope
- force on rock

Function

Spring Loaded Camming Devices
- protect against falls in free or aid climbing
- build removable anchors in rock
- secure a belayer
- mountaineering uses
- mountain rescue
- passive climbing protection

==== Method of Use ====
- locate crack
- Identify appropriate size cam unit
- remove cam from harness/chest sling
- grip cam securely
- retract the trigger
- insert in crack, pocket or flake
- find secure placement
- orient the cam with expected direction of force
- retract trigger and remove
- removed either on rappel or by 2nd climber
- replace back on harness or chest sling

Stakeholders

- climber
- rescue workers (mountain rescue)
- insurance companies (health, life & company insurance)
- tourism
- manufacturers
- hospitals
- environment
- retail services
- distributors

Issues associated with use

- having proper size for each type of placement
- dropping the device while climbing
- "walking" in cracks (when device gets stuck in a rock and you cannot remove it)
- with many devices the extra weight is evident

Watch a demonstration video on using a climbing cam that we did in the lab

Part analysis

Roberto Cabrera..