Active climbing cam
From DDL Wiki
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== Pre-Dissasembly Phase == | == Pre-Dissasembly Phase == | ||
| + | |||
| + | '''INPUTS:''' | ||
| + | |||
| + | - retraction force from hand<br /> | ||
| + | - friction force from rock<br /> | ||
| + | - reaction force from rock <br /> | ||
| + | |||
| + | '''OUTPUTS:''' | ||
| + | |||
| + | - force on climbing rope<br /> | ||
| + | - force on rock<br /> | ||
| + | |||
'''Function: Spring Loaded Camming Devices''' | '''Function: Spring Loaded Camming Devices''' | ||
| Line 8: | Line 20: | ||
- mountaineering uses<br /> | - mountaineering uses<br /> | ||
- mountain rescue<br /> | - mountain rescue<br /> | ||
| + | - passive climbing protection<br /> | ||
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- removed either on rappel or by 2nd climber<br /> | - removed either on rappel or by 2nd climber<br /> | ||
- replace back on harness or chest sling<br /> | - replace back on harness or chest sling<br /> | ||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | '''Stakeholders''' | ||
| + | |||
| + | - climber | ||
| + | - rescue workers (mountain rescue) | ||
| + | - insurance companies (health, life & company insurance) | ||
| + | - tourism | ||
| + | - manufacturers | ||
| + | - hospitals | ||
| + | - environment | ||
| + | - retail services | ||
| + | - distributors | ||
| + | |||
| + | '''Issues associated with use''' | ||
| + | |||
| + | - having proper size for each type of placement | ||
| + | - dropping the device while climbing | ||
| + | - "walking" in cracks (when device gets stuck in a rock and you cannot remove it) | ||
| + | - with many devices the extra weight is evident | ||
Revision as of 12:51, 24 January 2007
Pre-Dissasembly Phase
INPUTS:
- retraction force from hand
- friction force from rock
- reaction force from rock
OUTPUTS:
- force on climbing rope
- force on rock
Function: Spring Loaded Camming Devices
- protect against falls in free or aid climbing
- build removable anchors in rock
- secure a belayer
- mountaineering uses
- mountain rescue
- passive climbing protection
Method of Use
- locate crack
- Identify appropriate size cam unit
- remove cam from harness/chest sling
- grip cam securely
- retract the trigger
- insert in crack, pocket or flake
- find secure placement
- orient the cam with expected direction of force
- retract trigger and remove
- removed either on rappel or by 2nd climber
- replace back on harness or chest sling
Stakeholders
- climber - rescue workers (mountain rescue) - insurance companies (health, life & company insurance) - tourism - manufacturers - hospitals - environment - retail services - distributors
Issues associated with use
- having proper size for each type of placement - dropping the device while climbing - "walking" in cracks (when device gets stuck in a rock and you cannot remove it) - with many devices the extra weight is evident
