Active climbing cam
From DDL Wiki
(→Pre-Dissasembly Phase) |
(→User interaction) |
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=== User interaction === | === User interaction === | ||
| - | + | ''' Inputs '''<br /> | |
- retraction force from hand<br /> | - retraction force from hand<br /> | ||
- friction force from rock<br /> | - friction force from rock<br /> | ||
- reaction force from rock <br /> | - reaction force from rock <br /> | ||
| - | + | ''' Outputs '''<br /> | |
- force on climbing rope<br /> | - force on climbing rope<br /> | ||
- force on rock<br /> | - force on rock<br /> | ||
| - | + | ''' Function '''<br /> | |
Spring Loaded Camming Devices<br /> | Spring Loaded Camming Devices<br /> | ||
- protect against falls in free or aid climbing<br /> | - protect against falls in free or aid climbing<br /> | ||
| Line 27: | Line 27: | ||
| - | + | ''' Method of Use '''<br /> | |
- locate crack<br /> | - locate crack<br /> | ||
- Identify appropriate size cam unit<br /> | - Identify appropriate size cam unit<br /> | ||
| Line 39: | Line 39: | ||
- removed either on rappel or by 2nd climber<br /> | - removed either on rappel or by 2nd climber<br /> | ||
- replace back on harness or chest sling<br /> | - replace back on harness or chest sling<br /> | ||
| - | |||
=== Stakeholders === | === Stakeholders === | ||
Revision as of 22:30, 4 February 2007
Contents |
Pre-Dissasembly Phase
User interaction
Inputs
- retraction force from hand
- friction force from rock
- reaction force from rock
Outputs
- force on climbing rope
- force on rock
Function
Spring Loaded Camming Devices
- protect against falls in free or aid climbing
- build removable anchors in rock
- secure a belayer
- mountaineering uses
- mountain rescue
- passive climbing protection
Method of Use
- locate crack
- Identify appropriate size cam unit
- remove cam from harness/chest sling
- grip cam securely
- retract the trigger
- insert in crack, pocket or flake
- find secure placement
- orient the cam with expected direction of force
- retract trigger and remove
- removed either on rappel or by 2nd climber
- replace back on harness or chest sling
Stakeholders
- climber
- rescue workers (mountain rescue)
- insurance companies (health, life & company insurance)
- tourism
- manufacturers
- hospitals
- environment
- retail services
- distributors
Issues associated with use
- having proper size for each type of placement
- dropping the device while climbing
- "walking" in cracks (when device gets stuck in a rock and you cannot remove it)
- with many devices the extra weight is evident
Watch a demonstration video on using a climbing cam that we did in the lab
Part analysis
Roberto Cabrera..
