Active climbing cam

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Image:Climbing_Cam.jpg

Contents

Pre-Dissasembly Phase

Cam before dissection.
Cam before dissection.
Cam after dissection
Cam after dissection

User interaction

Inputs:
- retraction force from hand
- friction force from rock
- reaction force from rock

Outputs
- force on climbing rope
- force on rock


Function: Spring Loaded Camming Devices
- protect against falls in free or aid climbing
- build removable anchors in rock
- secure a belayer
- mountaineering uses
- mountain rescue
- passive climbing protection


Method of Use
- locate crack
- Identify appropriate size cam unit
- remove cam from harness/chest sling
- grip cam securely
- retract the trigger
- insert in crack, pocket or flake
- find secure placement
- orient the cam with expected direction of force
- retract trigger and remove
- removed either on rappel or by 2nd climber
- replace back on harness or chest sling


Stakeholders
- climber
- rescue workers (mountain rescue)
- insurance companies (health, life & company insurance)
- tourism
- manufacturers
- hospitals
- environment
- retail services
- distributors


Issues associated with use
- having proper size for each type of placement
- dropping the device while climbing
- "walking" in cracks (when device gets stuck in a rock and you cannot remove it)
- with many devices the extra weight is evident

Watch a demonstration video on using a climbing cam that we did in the lab

Part analysis

Active climbing cam after dissection, with parts labeled.
Active climbing cam after dissection, with parts labeled.

Roberto Cabrera..

Parts and functionality

Personal tools