Active climbing cam
From DDL Wiki
(→Pre-Dissasembly Phase) |
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'''Stakeholders''' | '''Stakeholders''' | ||
| - | - climber | + | - climber<br /> |
| - | - rescue workers (mountain rescue) | + | - rescue workers (mountain rescue)<br /> |
| - | - insurance companies (health, life & company insurance) | + | - insurance companies (health, life & company insurance)<br /> |
| - | - tourism | + | - tourism<br /> |
| - | - manufacturers | + | - manufacturers<br /> |
| - | - hospitals | + | - hospitals<br /> |
| - | - environment | + | - environment<br /> |
| - | - retail services | + | - retail services<br /> |
| - | - distributors | + | - distributors<br /> |
'''Issues associated with use''' | '''Issues associated with use''' | ||
| - | - having proper size for each type of placement | + | - having proper size for each type of placement<br /> |
| - | - dropping the device while climbing | + | - dropping the device while climbing<br /> |
| - | - "walking" in cracks (when device gets stuck in a rock and you cannot remove it) | + | - "walking" in cracks (when device gets stuck in a rock and you cannot remove it)<br /> |
| - | - with many devices the extra weight is evident | + | - with many devices the extra weight is evident<br /> |
Revision as of 12:52, 24 January 2007
Pre-Dissasembly Phase
INPUTS:
- retraction force from hand
- friction force from rock
- reaction force from rock
OUTPUTS:
- force on climbing rope
- force on rock
Function: Spring Loaded Camming Devices
- protect against falls in free or aid climbing
- build removable anchors in rock
- secure a belayer
- mountaineering uses
- mountain rescue
- passive climbing protection
Method of Use
- locate crack
- Identify appropriate size cam unit
- remove cam from harness/chest sling
- grip cam securely
- retract the trigger
- insert in crack, pocket or flake
- find secure placement
- orient the cam with expected direction of force
- retract trigger and remove
- removed either on rappel or by 2nd climber
- replace back on harness or chest sling
Stakeholders
- climber
- rescue workers (mountain rescue)
- insurance companies (health, life & company insurance)
- tourism
- manufacturers
- hospitals
- environment
- retail services
- distributors
Issues associated with use
- having proper size for each type of placement
- dropping the device while climbing
- "walking" in cracks (when device gets stuck in a rock and you cannot remove it)
- with many devices the extra weight is evident
