Active climbing cam
From DDL Wiki
(→Pre-Dissasembly Phase) |
(→Pre-Dissasembly Phase) |
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[[Image:Dissected_Cam.JPG|thumb|Cam after dissection]] | [[Image:Dissected_Cam.JPG|thumb|Cam after dissection]] | ||
| - | + | === User interaction === | |
| + | ''' Inputs: '''<br /> | ||
- retraction force from hand<br /> | - retraction force from hand<br /> | ||
- friction force from rock<br /> | - friction force from rock<br /> | ||
- reaction force from rock <br /> | - reaction force from rock <br /> | ||
| - | ''' | + | ''' Outputs'''<br /> |
| - | + | ||
- force on climbing rope<br /> | - force on climbing rope<br /> | ||
- force on rock<br /> | - force on rock<br /> | ||
| - | '''Function: Spring Loaded Camming Devices''' | + | '''Function: Spring Loaded Camming Devices'''<br /> |
| - | + | ||
- protect against falls in free or aid climbing<br /> | - protect against falls in free or aid climbing<br /> | ||
- build removable anchors in rock<br /> | - build removable anchors in rock<br /> | ||
| Line 28: | Line 27: | ||
| - | '''Method of Use''' | + | '''Method of Use'''<br /> |
| - | + | ||
- locate crack<br /> | - locate crack<br /> | ||
- Identify appropriate size cam unit<br /> | - Identify appropriate size cam unit<br /> | ||
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| - | '''Stakeholders''' | + | '''Stakeholders'''<br /> |
| - | + | ||
- climber<br /> | - climber<br /> | ||
- rescue workers (mountain rescue)<br /> | - rescue workers (mountain rescue)<br /> | ||
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- distributors<br /> | - distributors<br /> | ||
| - | |||
| + | '''Issues associated with use'''<br /> | ||
- having proper size for each type of placement<br /> | - having proper size for each type of placement<br /> | ||
- dropping the device while climbing<br /> | - dropping the device while climbing<br /> | ||
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Watch a demonstration [[video on using a climbing cam]] that we did in the lab | Watch a demonstration [[video on using a climbing cam]] that we did in the lab | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Part analysis == | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[Image:800px-Dissected_Cam_labeled.jpg|thumb|Active climbing cam after dissection, with parts labeled.]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | Roberto Cabrera.. | ||
== Parts and functionality == | == Parts and functionality == | ||
Revision as of 22:25, 4 February 2007
Contents |
Pre-Dissasembly Phase
User interaction
Inputs:
- retraction force from hand
- friction force from rock
- reaction force from rock
Outputs
- force on climbing rope
- force on rock
Function: Spring Loaded Camming Devices
- protect against falls in free or aid climbing
- build removable anchors in rock
- secure a belayer
- mountaineering uses
- mountain rescue
- passive climbing protection
Method of Use
- locate crack
- Identify appropriate size cam unit
- remove cam from harness/chest sling
- grip cam securely
- retract the trigger
- insert in crack, pocket or flake
- find secure placement
- orient the cam with expected direction of force
- retract trigger and remove
- removed either on rappel or by 2nd climber
- replace back on harness or chest sling
Stakeholders
- climber
- rescue workers (mountain rescue)
- insurance companies (health, life & company insurance)
- tourism
- manufacturers
- hospitals
- environment
- retail services
- distributors
Issues associated with use
- having proper size for each type of placement
- dropping the device while climbing
- "walking" in cracks (when device gets stuck in a rock and you cannot remove it)
- with many devices the extra weight is evident
Watch a demonstration video on using a climbing cam that we did in the lab
Part analysis
Roberto Cabrera..
