Active climbing cam
From DDL Wiki
(→Part analysis) |
(→Part analysis) |
||
| Line 90: | Line 90: | ||
| 6 || copper connector || || 3 || | | 6 || copper connector || || 3 || | ||
|- | |- | ||
| - | | || TOTAL || 52.5 || 24 || | + | | || '''TOTAL''' || 52.5 || 24 || |
|} | |} | ||
Revision as of 22:45, 4 February 2007
Contents |
Pre-Dissasembly Phase
User interaction
Inputs
- retraction force from hand
- friction force from rock
- reaction force from rock
Outputs
- force on climbing rope
- force on rock
Function
Spring Loaded Camming Devices
- protect against falls in free or aid climbing
- build removable anchors in rock
- secure a belayer
- mountaineering uses
- mountain rescue
- passive climbing protection
Method of Use
- locate crack
- Identify appropriate size cam unit
- remove cam from harness/chest sling
- grip cam securely
- retract the trigger
- insert in crack, pocket or flake
- find secure placement
- orient the cam with expected direction of force
- retract trigger and remove
- removed either on rappel or by 2nd climber
- replace back on harness or chest sling
Stakeholders
- climber
- rescue workers (mountain rescue)
- insurance companies (health, life & company insurance)
- tourism
- manufacturers
- hospitals
- environment
- retail services
- distributors
Issues associated with use
- having proper size for each type of placement
- dropping the device while climbing
- "walking" in cracks (when device gets stuck in a rock and you cannot remove it)
- with many devices the extra weight is evident
Watch a demonstration video on using a climbing cam that we did in the lab
Part analysis
| Part No. | Name | Weight (g) | Qty. | Manufacture method |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | spring | 0.5 | 2 | |
| 2 | cam lobes | 7 | 3 | |
| 3 | body | 45 | 1 | |
| 3.1 | thick cable | 1 | ||
| 3.2 | thin plastic tubes | 2 | ||
| 3.3 | thick plastic tube (orange) | 1 | ||
| 3.4 | trigger | 1 | ||
| 3.5 | axle | 1 | ||
| 3.6 | axle ends | 2 | ||
| 3.7 | finger support | 1 | ||
| 4 | spring pin | 3 | ||
| 5 | trigger wire | 3 | ||
| 6 | copper connector | 3 | ||
| TOTAL | 52.5 | 24 |
