Active climbing cam

From DDL Wiki

Pre-Dissasembly Phase

Cam before dissection.

Cam after dissection

User interaction

Inputs
- retraction force from hand
- friction force from rock
- reaction force from rock

Outputs
- force on climbing rope
- force on rock

Function
Spring Loaded Camming Devices
- protect against falls in free or aid climbing
- build removable anchors in rock
- secure a belayer
- mountaineering uses
- mountain rescue
- passive climbing protection

Method of Use
- locate crack
- Identify appropriate size cam unit
- remove cam from harness/chest sling
- grip cam securely
- retract the trigger
- insert in crack, pocket or flake
- find secure placement
- orient the cam with expected direction of force
- retract trigger and remove
- removed either on rappel or by 2nd climber
- replace back on harness or chest sling

Stakeholders

- climber
- rescue workers (mountain rescue)
- insurance companies (health, life & company insurance)
- tourism
- manufacturers
- hospitals
- environment
- retail services
- distributors

Issues associated with use

- having proper size for each type of placement
- dropping the device while climbing
- "walking" in cracks (when device gets stuck in a rock and you cannot remove it)
- with many devices the extra weight is evident

Watch a demonstration video on using a climbing cam that we did in the lab

Part analysis

Active climbing cam after dissection, with parts labeled.

Roberto Cabrera..